Paris in the Outback

Okay we are in regional not rural Australia as we are defined by the gov's

Any way we have been making some design/decorating choices based on our impressions of Paris. Fun to remember our trip
more later

TGV we love you.

We are currently on the TGV high-speed train to Paris where we will change stations and board the Eurostar to London. This is the fastest train I’ve ever been on and it’s so smooth and comfortable. Not enough luggage space but people just make do, so do we!

We also really appreciate the French!

As our trip draws to a close, I cannot say how many times people have extended kindness to us, lent a hand, bent over backwards to help us out….I continue to be amazed by the many simple kindnesses of strangers, that have helped make this the wonderful, joyful and special holiday that it has been!

The Bridge, the Pope and the river.

Avignon was eastabilished a long time ago but got really rep when the Pope set up shop here in the 1400’s. Apparently he was having a bit of time with the locals in Rome so got out of town for a few centuries. He (they) set up on a rock by the river and made a fort, a town then a city. Trade was good but a shepherd named Benezet got a call from God to walk down to the river at Avignon and build a bridge. Now the city officials along with the Pope had a rigorous planning regime and didn’t take kindly to this upstart trying something new. Does this sound like any current councils? Anyway he did this announcement in the crowded square so the “mayor” said okee dokee you want the bridge so bad take that big building block that the builders leftover because it was so big and put on the river bank as the first stone. So he did and that got him Saint status …… and le Pont d’Avignon. The bridge links the city with the huge island in the river so people could go over there to party and dance. The song came way, way later in the 1800’s. The Rhone River is mighty ‘mighty’ and it kept washing bits away. (By the way hearing this in the audio guide, while standing on the part of the bridge left, is a bit disconcerting) Anyway the original stone piers and wooden bridge became, over the year,s a stone bridge with a chapel to St. Benezet and one for the St. Nicholas. They are a good match here. Benezet is patron of architects  and Nicholas the patron of mariners.

Lots of waking in narrow streets on cobblestones and people watching. Lunch in little café recommended by the Host, le Café Grand and it was. Way back in the part behind le Palais du Pape. Great food no English spoken and we got what we expected off the menu. There were table plaques noting who the luminaries were that liked that table. Very cool! It really did look like Gerard Depardeau would walk in.

We both have colds now so back to the digs and sleep but we did get out for dinner at the corner of our street and it was again amazing food a bottle of Rose and final toasts.

Off to dance “Sur la Pont D’Avignon”

We got up early and packed, showered and had breakfast. We said our last goodbyes to the apprentice wait staff François and Laura who were amazing and the reception staff and Martina. Philipe drove us and Nick and Janet to the TGV train station to drop Nick and Janet off then took us on to Avignon. We got on to the tight streets and got to a point where it was blocked off and Philipe was worried but had to drop us. We walked for a couple of blocks and got to La Banasterie, no problem!

Sunday is not a day of rest

We got up early and got to markets in a small town some distance away. A big antique town but we did find a few gifts that would fit but I really was eyeing this 4 foot round table that could open up with added leaves to be …14 foot long!

We were with a hired guide because Philipe was busy at the hotel with Mothers day lunch. Gordana was originally Serbian and guides in English so she says she now speaks three languages but none of them well. She was hoot. And very very knowledgeable about the wines in France and the region. She wanted us to see another beautiful spot near by so we were shorter in Ile sur la Sourge than the original program and we just grabbed a piece of pizza to hold us cause we all thought we were stopping at St Remy but we ended up back at the Hotel so it was probably a good thing for my waist line. We had more rest and packing prep.

We met Cecelia and Denis Moshella that morning and had a long visit with them in the evening before dinner. They are from Newport Beach and really nice.  That Night was our Graduation and we got certificates and had drinks with Philipe and Martina, the owners of Domaine de Valmouriane We had a big meal in the terrace off the dinning room and later we snuck into the kitchen to get photos with Pascal and to say au revoir.

So you don’t like my fish soup!

This is the first thing out of his mouth. Chef is a wee bit sensitive! I totally bailed on the rest and said I ate it. I’m shamless!

New extra cooking couple Jeannie and Jay from Philadelphia! More fun in the kitchen, laughter and figuring stuff out!   This was our last day of cooking and I had begged for puff pastry so he set up and I had started early and focused on that it was too hot to do it properly but we got it going. And I got to do it completely. I can make puff pastry from scratch! I can add a bit of yeast to the dough and then end up with croissants!! I am super chef! Anyway we made Zuccinni flowers stuffed with salmon mousse for starters. Pork fillet en croute for main, and the most amazing lemon cream with strawberries in macaroons.

We used no butter in the mashed potatoes just oil, we didn’t fry with butter, we didn’t fry at all! We used butter in the puff pastry, the chocolate fondant (a bit) and in the lemon crème. We didn’t use cream in the lemon cream. We used fresh veg etc and good oils it was rich tasting with out being rich. What a life!

We had that afternoon off and both of us had to have a nap. I then walked all around the hills behind the hotel and Joyce emailed. We had a light bistro dinner, out on the patio -- light menu.

A Tail of 270 fishes (Or Oy Les Ouiex!!)

The next day on the table were two bus tubs full of whole fish but little ones. Some mini crabs, and eel etc. It looked like by-catch to me. Pascal said Fish Soup Starter with lamb rack and crème brule. I thought we would pick through and choose fish to use. Nope we talked about fish looked at the fish on my pants and damned if there wasn’t one in the bin that was the same size same color as one on my pants. Ha ha ha both bins into the pot end of laughing. We four looked at each other. I’m thinking it will boil and be good, Joyce is thinking it will be well sieved and be good, Janet is thinking ‘I may move from “no redmeat vegitarian” to ‘vegan’ Nick was just in shock. We all just tried to put the giant pot on the stove out of our mind but Pascal kept asking Joyce if she wanted the ‘step stool’ to see into the pot and I can see she is thinking ‘no thanks I’m worried they will still be seeing me’. We got on with the lamb and who knew that “frenching” lamb rack is easy? We did the racks and made crumbs for it and the dessert. Then the soup was ready but he used this screw sieve thing that pushed a lot through we could get out fast enough and went out to wait.

The soup came and was very strong tasting. I liked it but didn’t dig to deep. I likened it to the black lagoon “everything fine on the surface just spoon the broth off, don’t go looking for monsters” Janet couldn’t touch it and Nick and Joyce found it strong. I said to the waiter “please make sure that Chef knows this is mine.” (Referring to the empty soup bowl --  little butt kisser!)

That afternoon we went to a winery, 

candy fruit factory, olive mill, chocolatier and 

looked around the old part of St Remy. More nap required! 

We went to a second restaurant in town so we had a sense of how others cook in this area. Again it was superb!